Month: February 2024

Vienna Diary, July 25th

The late 19th Century and early 20th Century saw a huge craze for sending and collecting postcards. There was a thrill to pictures arriving in the mail, giving a glimpse — highly idealized and likely doctored — of another city or country. It was an aspirational outlet for a rising middle class. Evidence of it remains, if you look in the right places. For example, in Joyce’s Dubliners in the story A Mother, Mrs Kearney has her daughters participate in all manner of improving activities: “Kathleen and her sister sent Irish picture postcards to their friends and these friends sent back other Irish picture postcards.”

Letters had existed, but, as we continually learn, pictures and especially photographs have a broader, more powerful appeal. Pictures can be eloquent in ways our words fail to be. This isn’t me diminishing our writing. The Wien Museum’s excellent postcard exhibition informed me that it wasn’t until recently that anyone bothered transcribing and studying the messages contained in the vast corpus of vintage (ie old) postcards. It is part of the universal human condition to scrawl dull cliches on the back of a postcard. There are few keen observations or witty aphorisms. But occasionally when a war happens, soldiers might write something down about life in a field hospital after narrowly avoiding being totally blown to smithereens. Gather up enough of those and you have something worth of study.

The exhibition ultimately concludes that instagram has inherited the mantle that postcards once held in our popular culture. This is most certainly true. It’s easy to be nostalgic for cursive handwriting and postage stamps; I myself have a perverse inclination towards sending friends postcards even when I can instantly message them with high resolution phone photos. You shouldn’t mistake nostalgia for cultural vitality. But if you need further convincing I encourage you to look at the colorization on some of these old postcards and try and tell me this doesn’t foreshadow the instagram filter.

Vienna Diary, July 24th

It might easily have never happened. Whatever impulse it is that seems to either grant us free will or creates the illusion might never have twitched within me. But twitch it did, and so I entered the Anker — the ubiquitous chain bakery of Austria — and bought myself a Punschkrapfen. I don’t think I even knew it was a Punschkrapfen until I read the label set before the bright pink cube of fondant covered cake beneath the perspex counter. I bought one and took it at onto the street and ate it at once, like an apple. I did not anticipate how sweet, dense, and heavy it would be. It would have been impossible to anticipate. I felt like I was doing something indecent in public. Had I not been in Europe, then undoubtedly I would have been.

Vienna Diary, July 23rd

Tram, bus, and hike up Kahlenberg. Walked in the sun among vineyards overlooking the city. The top of the hill offers cafes, restaurants, concession stands, and Catholicism. It’s a Sunday morning and there was mass. A long line of cars trundled past to accept the Eucharist drive-thru style. Holy water was flung across the windshield. Shame they didn’t offer the sign of the cross with a squeegee.

On the way back there was an issue with our tram. We vacated to the platform to watch some kind of logic puzzle play out in from of us involving a small loop of track as one tram was brought in to replace another.